Futuristic Bedouin to Retro Bohème
by Pablo Avion
Once again, Nicholas K once opened Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week at Lincoln Center, showcasing the new Spring 2013 collection.
The lush, flowing, mid-1970s retro-future looks were inspired in part by the 1973 movie Soylent Green, but they could just as easily have been inspired by the movie Sleeper (which, interestingly, was also made in 1973).
Yes, Sleeper is a Woody Allen movie. But trust us: a lot of the outfits in that movie are great.
You know you want it. So here it is, so we can get back to the clothes:
Front row attendees at the show included Kyle Cook & Paul Doucette of Matchbox Twenty (band), Rob Evans (Model, ANTM judge), Chaske Spencer (Twilight werewolf Sam Uley), Joe Zee, Bryanboy, Eric West (Actor), India De Beaufort (Actress, Jane by Design, wearing a dress by Nicholas K), Icona Pop (Swedish pop band, Aiwo Jawo & Caroline Hjelt), Irina Pantaeva (wearing a dress by Nicholas K) and more.
For Spring/Summer 2013, the sibling team Nicholas and Christopher Kunz drew inspiration from the dark futuristic 1973 New York City film, Soylent Green, that prophesized NYC in the year 2022.
Known for their loose-fitting and multi-layered aesthetic, the designers showcased a line up of women’s and men’s wear featuring breezy, bohemian silhouettes of creamy leathers, ultra soft cashmere, silk satin, and mesh paneling. A spectrum of black, wood brown, nude, stone grey with pops of rust, soy, and periwinkle hues evoked the sensual appeal of color, texture, emotional charge, and green revolution of the ’70s.
Alongside ’70s visual staples, the geometrically layered and colorful yet restrained paintings of the Cubist/Expressionist painter Lyonel Feininger inspired this season’s collection. As Feininger’s freely constructed paintings utilize hard lines only defined by soft tonal progressions, this collection retains utilitarian functionality while augmenting tones of fluxing colors, multifaceted cuts, and layers of lush fabrics to the designs. Added pops of bold geometric stained glass necklaces finish off this seasonal theme perfectly.
The air of the 70s science fiction film Soylent Green and the Expressionism movement both shared the spirit of revolution against the monotony, a modern renaissance of self-recognition and awareness. This questioning of “the spirit of the age” with the need to experiment and visually express is reflected in this collection, as it pushes the boundaries on the utilitarian dress by eliminating the plain and incorporating an earthy mixed-mode of hues and drapey folds. Elevating awareness to the intricate designs while still complementing the body figure.
ABOUT THE BRAND
The brand has grown greatly since its beginning in 2003, first with the menswear line in 2005 and Nicholas and Christopher’s induction as members of the CFDA in 2009. They now sell the Nicholas K collection in over 120 stores worldwide. For the Spring/Summer 2013 season the team has also included a small line of women’s shoes.